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NITROZ9 Profile
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Registered: 04-2010
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


Wevel,Is that prop shaft number an up dated number after you put the spacers in?If not that spacer will drop you another 1/4" to 1/2 ".

I ain't no setup man by no means but it seem to me like if you are slipping that much and only turning 5 grand then when you get it hooked up that 24 is going to be a bit much.

How high is your rooster tail?Are you sure your H2O gauge is reading right?It sound like to me that you might be over trimming. I think you plate is too low and don't trim up so much.

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May/4/2010, 9:44 pm Link to this post Email NITROZ9   PM NITROZ9
 
Jay Martin Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


It makes it so hard without being there and seeing...

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www.jaymartinpropellers.com
May/4/2010, 9:49 pm Link to this post Email Jay Martin   PM Jay Martin
 
wevel2 Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


ok i just droped the plate a 1/2 of a inch i know its a big jump but i just wanted to see if the raker would lift at all or the gade the way to go for now jay i know what ya mean its hard to explain what the boats doin without seein it.. and yes bons thats updated when i put the plate on it droped me 3/16 so moved the jack plate 3/16 up right now im at 4 1/4 ... and the raker might be to much with only 5000 the max wot rpm is 5500 but i think if i can get it to lift the bow i can get it to 5200 which is fine. thats the way the gade was i could only turn it around 4600 to 4800 untill i got it to hook up and lift the bow and the boat and now its running 5000 rpm ill take the raker out and see what i get. like i said before if ican get it to get alittle air in under the boat it does good in rough water ittl run around 52mph thats the gade havnt had the raker in rough water yet..

Last edited by wevel2, May/5/2010, 11:26 am


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its almost done..wait... awl he!!..it will never be done
May/5/2010, 11:23 am Link to this post Email wevel2   PM wevel2
 
Jay Martin Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


Are you sure the heights your stating are correct? If you would follow the instructions I have listed below just to make sure we on the right path.

1) Level the boat. Place a level under the pad of the boat. Adjust the trailer jack up or down till boat is level
2) Level the motor. Place the level on the cavitation plate, and trim the engine down till it's level
3) Measure from the ground to the pad, Write the measurement down
4) Measure from the ground to the center of prop shaft, Write it down.
5) Deduct the two measurements. You want the prop shaft 3 1/2" below the pad of the boat.
6) Adjust the jack plate up or down, paying close attention the water pressure and max. engine rpms.
7)On lighter hulls with low water pickups, running at a neutral trim angle is best. To find the neutral trim angle, simple turn the ignition key on when you have set the engine at level. The needle will be pointing to a neutral position. If needed mark the trim gauge for future reference.


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www.jaymartinpropellers.com
May/5/2010, 4:32 pm Link to this post Email Jay Martin   PM Jay Martin
 
bonsaibp Profile
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posticon Re: 2 inches makes a difference


Heck Jay even I understood that. Thats the best job of explaining how to get your prop shaft center to 3 1/2" under the pad. 2 thumbs up

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bonsaibp
I AM NOT SAYING THERE SHOULD BE CAPITAL PUNISHMENT FOR STUPIDITY,
BUT, WHY DON'T WE JUST TAKE THE SAFETY LABELS OFF OF EVERYTHING
AND LET THE PROBLEM SOLVE ITSELF?"
blkdog812
May/5/2010, 6:25 pm Link to this post Email bonsaibp   PM bonsaibp
 
Bullet20dc Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


I just take a straight edge from the pad to the bullet point when its all level or use my torpedo laser level. the key is as JAY says is LEVEL. the measurement system works well if the ground its sitting on is flat and level also. a sloping driveway or uneven surface will give you a false reading which could be a problem with water pressure if ya get too close to the max height. always better to err on the down side when experimenting and go up 1/4 in at a time.
get greedy and get towed in....

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Charlie B
Bullet20dc / 250XS
Politically correct impaired

May/5/2010, 6:38 pm Link to this post Email Bullet20dc   PM Bullet20dc
 
wevel2 Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


im measuring right as u stated jay but idont measure from the ground i put a 4 foot level on the pad then mark the l/u then measure to the center of the torpedo... jay u need to copy and paste that and sticky it so anybody down the line will know great explination... now saying that i actualy got to go today river wasnt as bad as i thought just the creeks but anyways when i droped it a 1/2'' i got alot more lift still not as much as the gade but close still runing at 5000 rpm and 42mph the rooster tail was alot lower about cowl heighth ud think with the boat lifting i would gain speed but i dont still at 42.... what are u guys thinking drop it more it seems like the gades tha ticket im just tryin to get the best setup on the best prop then when i get some extra cash have jay tweak the best one. should i just ditch the raker since it dosent lift as well as the gade nor does it have the speed im just tryin to break 50 in smooth water the gade only 5mph away the raker is 8 mph away so whats next... the gade has alot more cuping around the whole blade the back sides and the tips the raker only has cuping on the tips. and its not near as agresive as the gades

Last edited by wevel2, May/5/2010, 8:41 pm


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its almost done..wait... awl he!!..it will never be done
May/5/2010, 8:38 pm Link to this post Email wevel2   PM wevel2
 
1FASTLASER Profile
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Registered: 02-2010
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


 There is still something goin on......You have been at 2 or 3 different prop heights so far and the only thing that has changed is the water pressure.........which brings me to .....Have you checked to see that you are getting full throttle.....Take hood off.....mash the gas all the way and look at the throttle plates....They chould be at 90 's to the throttle bores and at the same time the fuel advance should be real close to being wide open.....AGain I will state that you have approx 50 more hp and similar hull and if you are running only 42 then I will smoke ya......on a good day light load I run 52.....loaded for tourney I run 48-49.....that 140 outta be running in the high 50's

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LASER'S n MERCS....SETTIN THE WATER ON FIRE
May/6/2010, 6:04 am Link to this post Email 1FASTLASER   PM 1FASTLASER
 
1Nightmare Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


First, I'll note that I use and prefer Bullet's method since it doesn't rely on any deviation in the ground level. Just sayin'.

Of course, all hulls have their own preference on props but I'll throw a couple things out here that may or may not mean a darn thing...I've run a Raker, Renegade, Stiletto and Trophy on my Stratos. Once I had the numbers worked out, I was less than 1 mph slower on the 'Gade than the Raker and the 'Gade was so much easier to drive, it wasn't a hard decision.

As I recall, my best height on the Raker was right about 3 3/8" and I tended to trim all the way out. The trim is very subjective since angles on transom designs can be extremely variable so I wouldn't get hung up about that. There's no reason to have to go deeper than 4" - don't care what prop you have. Mine was a 14.5" where yours is a 13.5" diameter so if you get better numbers going deeper than 4" - it's cause the prop is getting a better bite and it shouldn't need that much depth - to me, means something's fouled up with the prop.

The 'Gade was pretty sensitive to height and once it hit a certain height, the improvements in speed were dramatic. I ended up with a height of 2.75" but I couldn't sustain 12# of pressure so I plugged the top 2 pairs of intake holes on the LU. Once I did that, it was no problem.

There are differernt ways to do it but I plugged mine with tapered rubber plugs that I got at the hardware store, plumbing section. These were rubber, not plastic. I trimmed the smaller tapered off until the diameter on the small end was just a snug fit in the intake hole. I coated the sides of the plug with epoxy and then mashed them into holes. Make sure they're mashed completely in and bottomed against the screens because you only have a little wall to hold them with, even with glue. Make sure they stay mashed in until the epoxy has set. I then carved the tops off flush to the LU with a utility knife AND then used a dremel to cup the top sides that faced the channels in the lower unit that flowed water to the intakes....this was to both relieve the pressure pushing against the side of the plug and trying to pry them out AND create pressure against the top of the plug to help keep it in (at least in my mind).

Now, with all that said...before going thru all that, you can get the same style of plug in cork, carve it the same (w/o the extra shapin- just flush with the LU, and wrap a strip of duct tape around the front of the LU and down the sides to cover the plugs - continuing a few inches past them. Cut the ends clean with a scissors - no ragged ends. DO NOT COVER THE REMAINING LOWER 2 PAIRS OF INTAKE HOLES! emoticon

This will allow you to test for height that would otherwise expose the upper holes and drop your water pressure. It won't last forever but if you give yourself plenty of time in the day to work on the water, you can experiment with higher jp settings. If those heights don't work for you, you won't have all the time and effort in the process with the peerm rubber plugs.

TIP: If you set your jp at a known setting, like 3" just for example, use a sharpie marker or even a small chisel to make a set of corresponding marks on matching portions of the jp (both sides). Once you've done that, you don't have to worry 'bout foolin' around with the pad measurin' anymore.

I'll shut up now. emoticon

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Good things comin' outta Crap!


May/6/2010, 9:01 am Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 
1Nightmare Profile
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Re: 2 inches makes a difference


I lied - I got more...... emoticon

I think it would be a lot clearer as opposed to the partial pieces of info, if you did this: Create a simple chart and list 4 columns as such -

HEIGHT RPMS SPEED PRESSURE

List height starting at 4" and each following increment in 1/4" jumps.

List rpms as close as what you can - should be able to get within 50 rpms.

List speed (gps) to the tenth.

List pressure as given. Keep 12# in all wot situations.

As long as you can keep your water pressure at least 12# wot, keep bumping up another 1/4" and document it. You just might surprise yourself. You can be pretty flat for awhile but once you start getting close to the sweet spot, it'll come on sudden and quick. emoticon

You're going to trim according to needs and anything less than fully trimmed can't be accurately evaluated. Don't worry about that right now.

In either case, it will be a lot easier to follow exactly, your situation, and for anybody to give good solid advice. JMO

If Jay says I'm fulla crap, then go with his take on it. I don't work on props for a living but I've done lotsa lotsa prop dopin' out and I can be anal with data details. emoticon emoticon emoticon

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Good things comin' outta Crap!


May/6/2010, 9:19 am Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 


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