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1FASTLASER Profile
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Registered: 02-2010
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Ethanol issues


 I know the subject has been talked about several times but it needs to be emphasized once in awhile.....

There ya are taking the son out for a day of fishing...Beautiful skies PERFECT weather....the bass bite is on and your skimmimg across the water at 65mph with the cool breeze in your face and then
WHAM.....WHAT DA HE!! WAS THAT
.....as you come to a halt....water running over the back of the boat......you turn around and there is a chunk of cowling missing.....you open it up and find this fist sized hole in the side of your prized $12000 motor.....later on you find out its because your motor took a drink of water through the fuel system because of ethanol.


This has happened more than once folks. I cant stress how important it is with todays fuels to keep a watchful eye on your fuel systems and properly maintain them. Water seperator installed,ethanol treatment put in at EVERY fuel stop....DO NOT let tanks sit for extended periods of time with fuel in them.....phase seperation occurs and big costs follow.......A few steps and you can live with ethanol.....Ignore the warnings and you could be loosing mucho denario

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LASER'S n MERCS....SETTIN THE WATER ON FIRE
May/1/2010, 6:24 am Link to this post Email 1FASTLASER   PM 1FASTLASER
 
southernbassguy Profile
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Registered: 04-2010
Location: Bessemer, Alabama
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Re: Ethanol issues


Great point there Laser. I put the blue Stabil in every tank and some seafoam. I just hope its enough, we don't have any non-ethanol fuel stations around. Its all up to 10%.

How often do yall think the water in fuel filter needs changed out?
May/1/2010, 3:05 pm Link to this post Email southernbassguy   PM southernbassguy
 
Bullet20dc Profile
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Re: Ethanol issues


3 to 4 weeks as a rule any longer use it in the lawn mower


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Charlie B
Bullet20dc / 250XS
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May/1/2010, 7:39 pm Link to this post Email Bullet20dc   PM Bullet20dc
 
1Nightmare Profile
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Re: Ethanol issues


I can stipulate to this, concerning change intervals: a spin-on canister filter/sep unit will plain shut you down when water hits it with enough for full media coverage. That doesn't mean you got "a lot" in but it does mean enough to close up the pores. Once water hits it, nothing gets thru that portion so everything takes a detour to the remaining open portion until it's all fouled with water molecules. At that point, you're plain shut down until you change out canisters. Been there, done it. That's why you must carry at least one spare canister.

Another option is the sediment bowl type with canister. There are 2 variations of these:

The first having a clear bowl below the canister element and has a petcok (valve) on the bottom of the bowl. The bowl can be viewed for water which can then be drained by way of the petcok, since water is heavier than fuel.

The second appears much like the standard spin-on canister with an integrated bowl (can't be seen thru) and petcok. While the bowl can't be viewed for water, the petcok can be opened periodically and checked that way.

The first style isn't rated for outboard use since it's apparently not considered appropriate for enclosed compartments so something to that effect, while the integrated unit is.

Both types spin onto an oil filter type remote base that can be mounted any place that your fuel line can be routed.

Keep spare filter element in it's own sealed container since it's capable of absorbing ambient moisture. A few silica gel packets sealed with it ain't gonna hurt nothing. Kept inside a couple quality zip-loc type bags with the air squeezed out and then duct taped should work. My preference (because I have one) is a vacuum sealing outfit since it will extract as much air as possible (along with moisture) plus provide a perfect seal.

Not saying it's right but I believe an annual change in the spring is a good start. You south types might run all winter long but are still more likely to pick up moisture in the tanks during the winter. The rest will vary with available fuels, crap in the bulk tank of any given gas station, filling up too soon after delivery is made to your station, etc.

 emoticon

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Good things comin' outta Crap!


May/1/2010, 8:09 pm Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 
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Re: Ethanol issues


EXCELLANT points there Nitey and also raised a question in my mind. You mentioned the TRAP tyle....the sight glass with the petcock in the bottom. Now I am asking here but at the same time giving my .02 On that style are they as effective as a filter style or cannister if you will. Reason I say this is the one with the percock doesnt it need to have the ful sitting for X period of time to allow seperation of the water and fuel?????

Now keeping this in mind you know your tanks are going to get a certain amount no mater what you do. I cleaned mine oout last June....completely pulled and flushed the tank. The other day I was tinkering around a blittle to pass the time and seen the fuel filter had some ugly sediment in it. Do you think there could be a way to put a petcock in the fuel tank to allow a person to say raise the nose on the boat and drain off any excess that is building up via the petcock????

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LASER'S n MERCS....SETTIN THE WATER ON FIRE
May/2/2010, 5:50 am Link to this post Email 1FASTLASER   PM 1FASTLASER
 
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Re: Ethanol issues


The unit with the sight bowl and petcok (btw if u leave out the "c", the nasty censor won't mess with ya) uses a canister above the sight bowl. Difference is that both ends look the same, i.e. they're open-ended and replaceable while the sight bowl goes back on the new one.

The sight bowl and canister element are both catching water that is seperated already, in the tank. Alcohol is a water base and will attract more water but it also gets mixed into petroleum base gasoline.....at first. Over time it will seperate and this is what the seperator is catching. I have used the strictly spin on oil filter lookin' units and they work but with the site bowl, you get a chance to get a longer useable life out of the filter element if you keep an eye on and drain off the water that will first get trapped in the site bowl. It's like having a recyclable seperator w/back-up filter.

Just my thinkin' but while you might be able to put a petcok in the rear wall of the tank and near enough the bottom to drain off crap in the bottom......my observation is that I don't see any tanks with holes in the bottom of them (on purpose), So if you got a leak, around the fitting....... emoticon

Think about this as an alternative: Remove the fuel gauge sending unit from the top of the tank. With the nose up in the air, and one side of the trailer raised up by driving up on a few wooden block, or jack it up (I don't care). Get yourself a good size syringe with a long enough piece of tubing (clear preferred) to stuff on the end. Get a piece of stiff wire (coat hanger would work) and connect the wire and tubing together with a couple zip ties. Now stick the end of the tubing thru the sender hole and right down in the low corner of the tank. Suck out the crap that's settled in the corner with the syringe.

This way, you're not putting any more holes in the tank and you have complete control (in syringe) of the crap you're removing from the tank. Otherwise, you're draining the crap and maybe fuel into the compartment.

Cut a new gasket from bulk stock, reinstall the sender, and feel confident that you'll be extending your filter and maybe even motor's life that much longer. Yeah, I pulled my tanks last year when I redid my carpet and it's a pita. emoticon

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Good things comin' outta Crap!


May/2/2010, 9:01 am Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 
1FASTLASER Profile
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Re: Ethanol issues


That outta work jerry. Never thought of the syringe ........I have noticed even when I normally take good care of my fuel system that filters just dont last like they use to when we used regular good ole gas. That was what I had on my mind......and you jit the nail on da head.

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LASER'S n MERCS....SETTIN THE WATER ON FIRE
May/3/2010, 6:17 am Link to this post Email 1FASTLASER   PM 1FASTLASER
 


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