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1Nightmare Profile
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Registered: 04-2010
Posts: 479
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Discussion of H2O Fitting Install (LilMule)


Admin note: This is a copy over from the JEV prop post that got unintentionally hijacked. Still good discussion and will be continued from here!


LilMule:

Any prop should be run under same conditions it will normally run,single 1/2 tank full wot for only speed runs or fun runs ,a fishing prop two up full tank,everything loaded that one normally carries,testing more for planing ability and carrying ability and what speed one can get loaded to the gills that way.
Other wise when loaded lite disappointing results,when heavy.
Have some testing to do of my own soon my 13 spline hub came in ,the good news my 28 P chopper it fits ,but not the lil 140 as does not clear the stabilizer bar shucks,think the tro4 27 p will but tad to tall.
Also my 24 P raker came in fits like a glove,vented SS used in fla by a flats jumper no rust as SS.
Any one need a tro4 27P w/15 spline hub?
As for drilling the bubble back they tell me more exhaust pressure than water on my model so getting temp sensor and a gauge.
Budget bassin,barter,sell,time.
heck price was right ,less in it than my bobs hydraulic jp,about the same as the seastar steering or the 24 v trolling motor.
I wonder if i should tell anyone its 33 years old and cost what a troller cost,in particular if it actually passes them.
I suspect their will be some 150 hp out there on 1500-1600 lb boats that wont run as fast.
Mine is the first year model so not as peppy as later years,yet about the equal to a 115 ho-122 hp.
Shall find out after all the rigging is done.
Cant be any worse than a 200 rebuilt going a grand total of 4 miles,the last one on the troller.

Southernbassguy:

Good luck with it Mule! Let us know how everything goes. Need any help with it you know where to find us.

1Nightmare:


"As for drilling the bubble back they tell me more exhaust pressure than water on my model so getting temp sensor and a gauge."

Somebody is yankin' your leg. If you have exhaust pressure on the bubble back, you got a cracked exhaust tuner. The bb is a water jacket that the tuner travels thru.

You can do what you want of course, but I'd be avoiding that source for any work....

LilMule:

Anywhere on the bubble?
Do you have to pull it or drill in place.
Am adding the temp anyway but would like to have both.As this years model had no pea hole,just two exhaust reliefs that water comes out of as well.

1Nightmare:

If mine was a V4, a picture would be forthcoming. Since mine is a V6, I doubt it would do alot of good - but....

I'll take a picture of where the fixture is located anyway and post. Except for added peace of mind, removing the bb wouldn't be required if worried about drill or tap shavings - probably not large enough not to flush on thru and even if a couple didn't flush, there's nothing for it to damage or impede water flow.

Plus, on mine, to get the bb off - the powerhead would have to come off because of the way the lower (long) bolts won't back out all the way because they hit the the lower cowling. You could drill/dremel the cowling to pass the bolts thru but it would looked f*ed up afterwards.

It is possible to take out the upper-mid-lower bolts and completely loosen the bottom bolts and back them out a ways. This would allow you to get somelook at what's behind the bb (at least on the side).

I'll get ya a pic here shortly.

LilMule:

Thanks my camera is broke or id post pic of mine,and thought what lil shaving might go thru but best to ask

wevel2:

any were on bubble is fine but i would try and put it as close as the factory models did ... ill get up a pic when i get a chance... the powerhead will have to come off if u wont to take off the bubble if u drill it in place make sure when ur drilling the buble u dont peirce the exhaust manifold/inner theres about a 1 inch gap between the water passage and tunner so ull feel the bit free up when u get threw the buble JUST DONT KEEP DRILLING AFTER U PEICE THE BUBBLE.. dont drill close to the flange were the bolts are theres not much water flow and on the flange itself thers none drill the bubled out portion of the bubble.

wevel2:

http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=80271c8d6d62b8ef801271fef9537aab&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

heres a link to a schematics web site u can see the inards and the ruting of the exaust look at the year above yours and thats the same way urs will be done ..

1Nightmare:


Entire back of motor. You'll barely note the fitting on the bottom/center-right of bubble back. Also note the bottom of the bb extends below the lower cowl.

Image

Fitting is centered in pic of lower right area of bubble.

Image

Side view of the bb where fitting is located. Note the area tapped for the fitting is a reinforced boss. The fitting is actually nylon/plastic and helps seal up but also keeps from damaging the bb if tightened too much - will simply strip the threads on the fitting.

Image

The bb isn't tremendously thick - maybe 1/8-3/16". Maybe using a fitting that threads extend inside enough to tighten down with a thin nut. That way not a concern about not enough threads to hold from tapping. Actual flow of water not an issue. Pressure gonna come from the difference of flow into water jacket versus ability to outflow.

Tapping would be simplest if it holds but the thru-fitting with nut on back will require access to inside of bb. Upper bolts will need removed. The lower bolts can be backed out 'til then hit lower cowl and then bb slid back and tilted to extent possible. The fitting will have to be in the upper part due to limited movement of the bb.

Gotta go sneak a nap 'fore work. You'n Wevel got this?

LilMule:


Thanks one pic is worth a 1,000 words.
3 pics priceless.

---
Good things comin' outta Crap!


Sep/17/2010, 8:41 am Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 
lilmule Profile
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Registered: 04-2010
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Re: Discussion of H2O Fitting Install (LilMule)


My apologies to JEV,,was more my fault than yours.
As for the pics thanks,mine is a tad different,it is a single bubble with no elongated section going upwards like yours.
And it does have a reinforced boss,just not same location yours is bottom right,mine is dead center and 1/3 the way down from the top.
Must be the different years tuners?Now im curious if your bubble back is better than my bubbleback tuner that is?
My motor is the plain jane white one,should I paint it grey or something to make those black motas feel better when it passes them,hey they gotta come off plane sometime.
Suspect you chose the boss due to more metal for a tap to hold?

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Sep/17/2010, 7:37 pm Link to this post Email lilmule   PM lilmule
 
1Nightmare Profile
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Re: Discussion of H2O Fitting Install (LilMule)


My tuner is different as it's a v6. I had a '78 115 but don't recall where the fitting was, although I can find out.

The fitting was there - I didn't install. Ran to the pizzer. I T'd into that line for h20 guage.

I would though, use the boss area due to extra material to tap. BUT - let me check where my old 115 fitting is located. It's free info for the having, after all! emoticon

---
Good things comin' outta Crap!


Sep/17/2010, 9:06 pm Link to this post Email 1Nightmare   PM 1Nightmare
 
wevel2 Profile
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Re: Discussion of H2O Fitting Install (LilMule)


  yep use the boss area mule mine and urs are in the exact area any buble is better than the ones without. a 140 buble( the ineer exaust manifold) is the stoutest

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its almost done..wait... awl he!!..it will never be done
Sep/17/2010, 9:44 pm Link to this post Email wevel2   PM wevel2
 
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Re: Discussion of H2O Fitting Install (LilMule)


Agreed a bubble back tis better than a flat back,but just like some years had better more high compression heads than others some tuners were a tad different.
My 77 was one of the weaker ones,but somewhere along the lne was upgraded as has an upgrade sticker for 88 oct min,even says upgrade lol.
If im not mistaken 79 was a good year for heads and the 135 ones at that.
Your 84 is almost 140 hp,an 85 110 ci is 152 dyno,but that was first year looper after that went to 122 ci
77-84 99 ci
I really like the less weight and see no reason they couldnt be putting out near 140,without any ci enlargement,and without sacrificing longectivity.
A lil better breathing ,piston ports to help the xflow do a bit better,cleaner running in other words with less gas.
Weighing in at what 315 or thereabouts be a good lil modern motor if anywhere near 140 as for hp to weight ratio.

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Sep/17/2010, 10:52 pm Link to this post Email lilmule   PM lilmule
 


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